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Posts from the ‘Early Days’ Category

Hanger The Expense…?

Early on in the Bento development process, I thought about the hangers the garments would be on. All too often I’ve witnessed friends being unwilling to try something on because they don’t like how it looks on the hanger (in the industry, this is known as hanger appeal). Whilst the design of the clothes plays a huge part in this, I couldn’t help but think perhaps the hanger itself has a role in this too.

So, I took a tour of boutiques to check out their hangers. Oh yes, I really did.

What became very quickly apparent is that designers seem to have very little to say in the matter when it comes to how their clothes will be displayed. That is, in the vast majority of cases, the garments were hung on the boutique’s hangers. When you think about it, this makes perfect sense. If you hung the clothes on the hangers they were delivered on, the store would tend to look rather uncoordinated.

What this meant is that I decided against having special hangers made for Bento items. Yes, having beautiful hangers to deliver the items on may have made a nice impression on our stockists, but if all they were going to do is remove them and put them on their own hangers then throw them out, would it have been worth it? In keeping with our philosophy of making locally, high-end hangers can be several dollars apiece.

Currently, Bento garments are delivered to stockists on the hangers provided by our manufacturers. They are plastic, and whilst we “recycle” them by returning as many as possible to the manufacturer, I deeply suspect they have a huge carbon footprint and are made overseas.

Last week, I discovered a company called Green Hanger (http://www.greenhanger.com.au/) – an Australian company that makes cardboard, fully recyclable hangers. I think these are pretty neat, but there’s a HUGE catch. They’re made in China. They work out at around 33c each – cheaper than the current plastic versions.

I have investigated having similar versions made in Melbourne. Wanna guess what they cost?

$2.12 each.

So, here’s the question. Is it worth spending the money to make this happen, knowing that we will inevitably have to pass the cost on to the stores who will undoubtedly pass the cost on to consumers?

Or do we use the China ones, ask lots of questions about their manufacturing environment and accept that recyclable ones made in China are a heck of a lot better than plastic ones made in China and work on finding a way to get them made cheaper in Australia?

Fussy

As you know, we’re currently working on selling the second Bento collection – Two’s Company – for Spring/Summer 2011-2012 to boutiques.

Happily, this collection is getting much more demand than the first. I’m not really sure why yet, but it’s probably a combination of the price point, having lasted to see a second season, the press we received and some other things.

Anyway, that’s not my point. My point is that with any increased level of attention comes some element of unwelcome attention. Many of the stores that have approached us about stocking Bento are gorgeous and perfect for Bento and we’re thrilled.

There are a few however, that I don’t think really reflect the brand we’re trying to build.

This isn’t to say that these stores are less than fabulous in any way… more that they’re just not us. So the question is – how fussy should we be? The marketer in me is determined to protect the Bento brand, as it’s most vulnerable whilst it’s developing. The business person in me though, says these stores represent dollars and refusing to stock them means limiting the exposure of the brand and the likelihood of getting it in customer’s hands.

So what do you think? How much does the purchase environment play a role in your perception of a brand?

The C Word

Get your mind out of the gutter. The C word for all fashion labels is Consignment. What’s consignment? Well, consignment is when a store would like to stock your things, but instead of paying for it like a “proper” stockist, they ask you to wear the cost of production and whatnot, and don’t pay you until it sells in their store and they have the cash in their bank account.

Now you might be thinking this sounds pretty fair, but it’s actually seriously scary. It’s scary because obviously, the store has no real vested interest in selling your things. Yes, they’ll get the cash, but what about all the other stock in the store that they’ve paid for in advance? Surely that’s a priority?

Moreover, when a label is in my position – that is, new – every single cent counts. The last thing you want is unsold stock being handed back to you at the end of the season.

So why oh why would someone do it? Well, to get their label out there and in people’s hands. It also does a lot for your credibility to have your stuff in a “proper” store alongside other more established labels. In some cases, a really well-regarded store stocking your product can lead to others coming on board.

That said, many have argued that if you’re going to produce stock with no buyer, you’re better off selling it yourself through your own store – either physical or online – where it’s your only priority and you get a greater share of the sale price.

So what do you think? It’s definitely a tough one, but what would you do?

On A Mission

There’s something I’ve largely resisted doing until now and I think I’ve reached the point where I have to take a deep breath and just tackle it. So what is this deep, dark, terrible, horrible, no-good, very bad thing?

Cold calling journalists, stylists, writers and other people with the ability to give Bento a little media love.

Even just thinking about it makes me feel a little nauseous. I’m not sure why I hate the idea so much – I suppose it’s because I get ignored and shot down a lot, so the thought of a phone call (which I regard as infinitely more personal) just seems pretty scary.

It’s my intention to call, introduce myself and tell them an itty bit about Bento, then offer the collection on loan for editorial purposes.

Realistically, what’s the worst that can happen? They can hang up on me, or just not answer their phone at all, right? Actually, I suppose the very worst that can happen is I do like teenagers do in movies, freak out when they answer the phone, blurt out something like ‘wrong number’ and then hang up. Only to call back five minutes later and learn they have caller ID.

Ugh, wish me luck.

The People Project

Okay team, here’s the challenge. As you know, our online stockist, The Dreamery (www.the-dreamery.com) is currently taking preorders for our AW 2011 collection. Our other stockists will begin getting deliveries in the next week or two and some of them have waitlists.

Now Bento means the world to me, and my future largely depends on the success or failure of this season. After all, I threw in my job and the income that went along with it to pursue this crazy dream.

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to tell three people about Bento.  Why? Because I want it to sell of course, but also because I want people to know about what Bento stands for.

Not sure what to tell those three people? Here are some ideas:

  • Every single Bento piece goes from concept to completion within 10km of our studio in Melbourne. Waddaya know? The ragtrade still exists in Australia.
  • I was reading a blog the other day about this girl who threw in her big wig job to chase her dream of staring a fashion label. It’s just going in to stores now.
  • Do you think it’s possible for fashion to be sustainable? The very notion of fashion means it changes all the time, but what if people focused on buying things that were really high quality and lasted, rather than just buying lots of stuff? There’s this label I heard about called Bento which does just that…
  • Bento is totally rad. What do you mean you haven’t heard of it?

My hope is that with the power of the interweb and good ol’ fashioned word of mouth, we can get Bento to be known. And more importantly, spread the word about quality over quantity and that ethical production doesn’t mean compromising on style.

Awesome Vomit

I often get people telling me how exciting and brave it was for me to throw in my proper job to pursue a dream. I think it depends on the day. On a good day, it’s brave and exciting. On a bad day it’s insane and nauseating. Today I’m on the fence.

In a matter of weeks, our first collection will be delivered to stockists. There it will be seen by shoppers all over the world alongside spectacularly beautiful labels like Akira, Mrs Press, Gail Sorronda, Jayson Brundson and Megan Park. I’m both thrilled and horrified.

If that wasn’t nerve-wracking enough, we’re about to commence selling of the Spring/Summer 2011-2012 collection… and we all know how much fun that is. That said, everyone says the second season is easier than the first and Spring/Summer is better to sell than Autumn/Winter.

Call me crazy, but on top of all this I’m also collating fabric and starting to get an idea of how Autumn/Winter 2012 will shape up. I love this part, but at the same time I’m nervous as heck.

On top of all this, I have several other major commitments to juggle.

Don’t get me wrong – I’ve never been this content in my life. I love what I do and I couldn’t be happier to have taken this risk. I am, however constantly aware of just how big a risk it is. And just how much work I have to do.

Overwhelming and thrilling, nervous excitement… and awesome vomit. Er, just run with it. And send good vibes, prayers and voodoo my way.

Who’s Really Got The Power?

Without drawing you a diagram, in a nutshell the fashion world seems to have this fairly accepted system and in a simplified way, it goes a little something like this:

Step one: start label
Step two: hire PR agency
Step three: agency gets you lots of coverage in all the coolest magazines, give stuff to celebrities to be seen and for people on TV to wear and maybe talk to a couple of blogs if they’re feeling digitally savvy
Step four: customers read about it in the magazines and blogs and this creates demand
Step five: you have a hot label that stores are eager to stock because they have physical proof that there will be demand and a history of sales

Here’s what I’ve been wondering though… is it possible for success to be achieved via alternate means? The formula outlined above relies heavily on traditional media. Don’t get me wrong, I love love LOVE traditional media. I am a glossy magazine addict of the highest order. But how essential is it to success?

For that matter, the marketer in me knows the value of PR. The word of a journalist is worth ten times more than an advertisement. That said, of all the “impressions” that a little mention in a magazine or a picture (or even a big feature) will get, how many actually translate to a sale of a garment?

Ultimately, I’d suggest that it doesn’t really matter how much press you get if your stuff doesn’t sell. But is the inverse true? Does press coverage become largely irrelevant if your pieces sell really well? And if that’s true, then who really holds the power in this equation? The stores? The media? The behind the scenes people?

Or does it really come down to you, the customer who will buy and wear Bento?

Information Overload

As many of you will know, I’ve been in Sydney this week on Bento business. It’s been really interesting. I’ve seen lots and lots of people. Journalists, bloggers, photographers, sales agents, PR agents, stockists, stylists… you name it.

In many ways, this was an information gathering trip. Of course, you know – be careful what you wish for, because you just might get it. I haven’t blogged the last few days out of sheer exhaustion, time and the fact that I just don’t know what to write. My mind is buzzing with all this detail. Such a huge variety of opinions, concepts, ideas and demands.

Not only is there the content to deal with… but who do you trust? Those who take the time to provide criticism? Those who are kind? If taking their advice means paying them money, then logically you’d give their opinion less weight than those who give advice but pay you. But what if the people you must pay are the ones with the impressive track record?

I know I’m my own worst critic, but the devil on my shoulder says to believe all the bad things and dismiss the vast majority of good as superficial kindness. But is that really reasonable?

Every ounce of me knows that fashion is not where my skillset lies. I’m a marketer (and an online one at that) through and through. But I KNOW this. I know what I don’t know. I’m willing to ask, to learn and to be challenged.

Right now though, I’m confused and overwhelmed. I don’t know what to believe and who to trust. I don’t know who wishes for my success and who is interested in seeing me fail for their own bizarre pleasure… (and yes, I do actually believe some of these people exist).

Perhaps the best advice I’ve been given on this trip (and I thank that person again - you know who you are) is to just trust myself.

Now all I have to work out is what I think. Just me. On my own.

Product Knowledge

A little while back, after having written about each of our stockists and there being some media coverage on the matter, I thought it would be a good idea to do a bit of a mystery shop. Now obviously the collection isn’t in stores yet, so this was more about seeing if I could get some info about the label, find out when it was in stores, or get on the waitlist.

In some cases, the buyer for a boutique also works in the store or has a large amount of involvement in it. Given this, they have background knowledge – after all, they placed the order with me!

Understandably, even in the instance where the buyer works closely with the store, they weren’t always the one to answer the phone when I called.

Disappointingly, of all the stores I called, not one single consultant that answered the phone even knew if they were going to stock Bento. Worse yet, none of them offered to find out and call me back (although one did give me the number for their head office and a person to speak to).

Now, this post could turn into a commentary on poor customer service in Australia but it’s not supposed to be. Realistically, I can’t actually control what (if any) customer service training, etc. my stockists provide their staff. What I CAN do however, is try and make an impact on their level of product knowledge about my label.

To this end, I’ve written a (short) book about the collection, including some interesting facts about it (for example, every piece in the first collection is named after a child of a friend or family member born the same year as Bento), information about fabrics and so forth. They also contain my contact details so anyone can call me if they have questions. These books will be given exclusively to stockists.

I’m also considering holding a little product training evening. You know – some drinks, some nibbles and a quick 30 mins or so with me going through each of the designs, the fabrics, features, some styling ideas and so forth.

I’d love to hear your thoughts though – what else can I do to increase the sales consultant’s knowledge about Bento and their interest in selling it?

Workers Exploited In Melbourne

Earlier today this article from the Herald Sun was brought to my attention:

LEADING fashion brands are being made by exploited workers in filthy sweat shops … here in Melbourne.

An investigation has exposed a network of thousands of outworkers paid less than $2 an hour on average who make garments that adorn rails in our big department stores.

One worker was paid $10 a dress, which was then sold in a shop for $600.

And this week clothes for Portmans, Jacqui-E, Pilgrim, Basque and Hi There were being made in revolting and potentially lethal conditions.

But this is not the slums of a Third World country it’s Melbourne’s inner suburbs.

Elizabeth Macpherson, of the Textile Clothing and Footwear Union of Australia, said: “No one thinks it is happening in Melbourne, but it’s rife and in our backyard.

“I’ve seen conditions here that are worse than anywhere abroad.

“The problem is massive but people think because it’s Australia, it does not happen here, the law would not allow it to happen.

“But I’ve heard stories and seen conditions so harsh and people treated so badly, it tears at your heart. It’s exploitation at its worst and it’s right here in Melbourne.”

Ms Macpherson said shoppers needed to realise exactly what they were buying.

“Australian Made does not mean ethically made,” she said.

“Consumers need to stop and think about the exploited mum who has been forced to get her children involved in making a dress, staying up the whole night, just so a fashion house can get their product in a store by Monday morning and being paid pittance for it.”

The average hourly wage of a sweat shop employee is $8, but businesses pass on the bulk of their workload to outworkers who receive $2 on average.

Expenses such as running a car to pick up the material and delivering the garments and even the cost of cotton must also come out of their wage.

Outworkers in Australia work an average 14 hours a day, seven days a week to make ends meet.

Ms Macpherson said some fashion houses owed thousands to outworkers in a deliberate act to keep staff working for them.

“Workers are never told how much they are being paid for a job,” she said.

“When all the garments are made and handed over, the fashion house tells them how much money they will receive. But they still don’t get that money for two or three weeks and maybe longer.

“The fashion house creates a situation where the worker is owed money, so they have to keep working for them to have any chance of getting that cash.

“Other fashion houses have been known to ask for payments from outworkers to ensure they are given continued work. And they find the lamest excuse not to pay.”

This year the union has helped 3000 sweatshop and outworkers receive better conditions and pay.

Run-down shops in Maidstone have their front windows painted to hide the conditions inside.

Stepping inside, gas bottles are attached to rusty heaters and an oven; a fire extinguisher lies on the floor without a hose; cracked tiles litter the floor and paint is peeling from the walls.

And there are rails and rails of dresses, all bearing “Made in Australia” tags.

In Footscray, a commercial factory doubles as an illegal home.

The union has also uncovered a factory in Altona North where eight women were working with water pouring through the roof.

There was hardly any light and water was on the floor.

In Springvale, workers were locked inside a factory so there was no way out if a fire started.

At another site, workers were wearing coats and earmuffs because it was so cold and the gas bottle for the heater had run out.

And in Sunshine, Ms Macpherson had a shotgun pointed at her and death threats made.

Tommy Clarke, of Ethical Clothing Australia, said: “Sweatshops are a big problem in Australia. Brands need to take practical steps to make sure they are not breaking the law. If consumers want to support efforts for a more ethical Australian clothing industry, it’s important they look for the Ethical Clothing Australia logo when they are shopping.”

You can read the article and the comments on their site, here: http://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/victoria/workers-exploited-in-melbourne-sweat-shops/story-e6frf7kx-1225976210534

I thought it was important to mention this article, as it directly addresses one of the fundamental beliefs behind Bento – that it’s possible to be stylish AND ethical.

Regular readers will know that we specifically decided not to progress with certification from Ethical Clothing Australia, mostly due to costs, but also because we don’t agree with the idea that brands who are doing the RIGHT thing should have to prove themselves. To put it another way, the government requires cigarettes to have labels saying ‘smoking causes lung cancer’ or some such thing, but not for apples to have stickers saying ‘I’m nutritious!’.

That said, Bento is absolutely produced ethically. I personally inspect the working conditions of each and every one of our manufacturers (which are all in Melbourne, out of interest). ALL of our manufacturers have been independentally certified by the ECA and/or relevant unions. We even go so far as to research the origins of our fabrics, our buttons, our tags, labels – EVERYTHING – to do our utmost to ensure each person in the chain that is required to make a Bento garment works in a suitable environment and is paid an appropriate wage.

More to the point, this isn’t something that is going to change. As Bento gets bigger, we believe that puts us in an increasingly great position of power to be able to truly encourage the industry to embrace ethical production.

We at Bento applaud articles like this as we feel it’s important to educate customers on the origins of their clothes and what cheap labour really means.

But it’s definitely not what Bento is about.

Bento is ethical from collar to cuff, and everything in between.