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Archive for December, 2010

Two Thousand and Eleven

I’ve said it before but I’ll say it a thousand times more… so much can change in a year.

This time 12 months ago, I had a different name. I wasn’t married. I worked in senior management for a major bank. Leaving the bank wasn’t even on the cards. Bento was just a dream and a game I played with myself.

I’ve spent a lot of time during the last few days as the year comes to an end contemplating what 2011 will have in store for Bento and I. Perhaps it’s my corporate background, but I need to go into a new year knowing what I want to get out of it.

Rather than resolutions, I set goals. (Of course, the truly hilarious part is that most of my 2010 goals went out the window when Bento came along).

So… some of my/our goals for the year I can’t really share yet for confidentiality reasons (and it’d spoil the surprise!). That said, here’s what I’d like to do next year:

  1. Get editorial for Bento in a major glossy magazine (Vogue, In Style, Harpers Bazaar, etc.)
  2. Get a government grant for Bento (I’ve spoken of these briefly before – there are many grants out there that can help businesses like Bento thrive and reinvigorate the ragtrade in Australia)
  3. Make a profit.
  4. Have a sell-through rate above 80%.
  5. Launch Bento into a new product category (mmm… vague).
  6. Sign two of the deals I’ve been in discussions about late this year (mmm… very vague).
  7. Secure stockists in every state in Australia.
  8. Secure an international stockist (I was hesitant to write this one… I feel it’s still too soon for Bento, but we’ll see how the year plays out).

What do you think? Am I forgetting anything? In your opinion, are these goals too big or too small… or just right?

At any rate, have a tremendous New Years Eve and enjoy plotting and executing your adventures in 2011.

Workers Exploited In Melbourne

Earlier today this article from the Herald Sun was brought to my attention:

LEADING fashion brands are being made by exploited workers in filthy sweat shops … here in Melbourne.

An investigation has exposed a network of thousands of outworkers paid less than $2 an hour on average who make garments that adorn rails in our big department stores.

One worker was paid $10 a dress, which was then sold in a shop for $600.

And this week clothes for Portmans, Jacqui-E, Pilgrim, Basque and Hi There were being made in revolting and potentially lethal conditions.

But this is not the slums of a Third World country it’s Melbourne’s inner suburbs.

Elizabeth Macpherson, of the Textile Clothing and Footwear Union of Australia, said: “No one thinks it is happening in Melbourne, but it’s rife and in our backyard.

“I’ve seen conditions here that are worse than anywhere abroad.

“The problem is massive but people think because it’s Australia, it does not happen here, the law would not allow it to happen.

“But I’ve heard stories and seen conditions so harsh and people treated so badly, it tears at your heart. It’s exploitation at its worst and it’s right here in Melbourne.”

Ms Macpherson said shoppers needed to realise exactly what they were buying.

“Australian Made does not mean ethically made,” she said.

“Consumers need to stop and think about the exploited mum who has been forced to get her children involved in making a dress, staying up the whole night, just so a fashion house can get their product in a store by Monday morning and being paid pittance for it.”

The average hourly wage of a sweat shop employee is $8, but businesses pass on the bulk of their workload to outworkers who receive $2 on average.

Expenses such as running a car to pick up the material and delivering the garments and even the cost of cotton must also come out of their wage.

Outworkers in Australia work an average 14 hours a day, seven days a week to make ends meet.

Ms Macpherson said some fashion houses owed thousands to outworkers in a deliberate act to keep staff working for them.

“Workers are never told how much they are being paid for a job,” she said.

“When all the garments are made and handed over, the fashion house tells them how much money they will receive. But they still don’t get that money for two or three weeks and maybe longer.

“The fashion house creates a situation where the worker is owed money, so they have to keep working for them to have any chance of getting that cash.

“Other fashion houses have been known to ask for payments from outworkers to ensure they are given continued work. And they find the lamest excuse not to pay.”

This year the union has helped 3000 sweatshop and outworkers receive better conditions and pay.

Run-down shops in Maidstone have their front windows painted to hide the conditions inside.

Stepping inside, gas bottles are attached to rusty heaters and an oven; a fire extinguisher lies on the floor without a hose; cracked tiles litter the floor and paint is peeling from the walls.

And there are rails and rails of dresses, all bearing “Made in Australia” tags.

In Footscray, a commercial factory doubles as an illegal home.

The union has also uncovered a factory in Altona North where eight women were working with water pouring through the roof.

There was hardly any light and water was on the floor.

In Springvale, workers were locked inside a factory so there was no way out if a fire started.

At another site, workers were wearing coats and earmuffs because it was so cold and the gas bottle for the heater had run out.

And in Sunshine, Ms Macpherson had a shotgun pointed at her and death threats made.

Tommy Clarke, of Ethical Clothing Australia, said: “Sweatshops are a big problem in Australia. Brands need to take practical steps to make sure they are not breaking the law. If consumers want to support efforts for a more ethical Australian clothing industry, it’s important they look for the Ethical Clothing Australia logo when they are shopping.”

You can read the article and the comments on their site, here: http://www.heraldsun.com.au/news/victoria/workers-exploited-in-melbourne-sweat-shops/story-e6frf7kx-1225976210534

I thought it was important to mention this article, as it directly addresses one of the fundamental beliefs behind Bento – that it’s possible to be stylish AND ethical.

Regular readers will know that we specifically decided not to progress with certification from Ethical Clothing Australia, mostly due to costs, but also because we don’t agree with the idea that brands who are doing the RIGHT thing should have to prove themselves. To put it another way, the government requires cigarettes to have labels saying ‘smoking causes lung cancer’ or some such thing, but not for apples to have stickers saying ‘I’m nutritious!’.

That said, Bento is absolutely produced ethically. I personally inspect the working conditions of each and every one of our manufacturers (which are all in Melbourne, out of interest). ALL of our manufacturers have been independentally certified by the ECA and/or relevant unions. We even go so far as to research the origins of our fabrics, our buttons, our tags, labels – EVERYTHING – to do our utmost to ensure each person in the chain that is required to make a Bento garment works in a suitable environment and is paid an appropriate wage.

More to the point, this isn’t something that is going to change. As Bento gets bigger, we believe that puts us in an increasingly great position of power to be able to truly encourage the industry to embrace ethical production.

We at Bento applaud articles like this as we feel it’s important to educate customers on the origins of their clothes and what cheap labour really means.

But it’s definitely not what Bento is about.

Bento is ethical from collar to cuff, and everything in between.

Do You Know This Person?

The photos of our second collection, Two’s Company, for Spring/Summer 2011 are in!

As exciting and nerve-wracking as this is, we all know what comes after photos… SELLING.

We haven’t yet decided if we’ll sign a sales agent for next season, but regardless as to whether it’s me doing the selling again or an agent, I’d like to ensure that the seller is equipped with the tools to be as successful as possible.

What I’d like to try is using reviews from industry journalists like they do with movies or books in the approach to boutique buyers.

I’ve approached the journalists I know well enough… but I thought perhaps some of you might know someone appropriate. All they need to do is have a look at the images and provide a ‘review’ of no more than about 12 words.

If you are a journalist or you know someone who is, please get in touch!

Why Bento Isn’t Eponymous

I’ve lost count of the number of times people have asked why I didn’t name Bento after myself (that’s what eponymous means, in case you’re wondering).

If this is something that has struck you as interesting, allow me to explain…

First and foremost, Bento isn’t about me. The name comes from a dream I used to have about running away in the middle of the night with my husband to escape the job I hated. In a nutshell, I began to play a game with myself where if I spontaneously left and was never coming home, what seven or so pieces from my wardrobe would I take with me? Logically, they were always items that were timeless, effortless and of the highest quality. When new pieces were bought the trade-off in my head would begin – would they usurp those I’d already selected to form the midnight getaway baggage? In my mind these pieces would sit in a bento – as in, the Japanese lunch box – so only a certain number could be in residence at any one time. So you see, naming the label after myself just wouldn’t do.

Moreover, I’m not actually a designer in the traditional sense of the word. I can’t sew at a commercial level and I can’t make complicated patterns. What I know about fabric and cut comes from being an avid consumer, not from traditional schooling. Really, who am I to create an eponymous label and position myself alongside designers such as Stella McCartney or Alexander McQueen? 

For that matter, with all due respect to my husband and his family whose name I now wear with pride, I’m not sure it’s really eponymous label material. Some people are just born with names that scream ‘PUT ME ON SOMETHING’ – I’m not confident I’m one of them.

Finally, when it came to naming Bento, I wanted to differentiate between me and the label. I don’t just design things that I’d want to wear. I actually spend an awful lot of time thinking about different sizes, shapes and heights, the wearability of the fabric and how it will need to be cared for. Put in a slightly different way, Bento is a commercial business, not an artistic venture. Or as Marc Jacobs said, “… you can’t make a business out of what I would wear. We’d be out of business” – but that’s probably a story for another day.

Hope you’re all having a sensational limbo – aka, that time between Christmas and New Year (and personally, my favourite time of year).

Wee Fish Ewe A Merry X-Moose Panda Hippo Gnu Deer

I’ve always regarded Christmas as a time of significant reflection. Not just because of it’s proximity to the end of the year, but also for it’s origins and the opportunity to spend time with friends and family.

Now I’ve polished off my shopping and before I start scoffing rum balls, drinking bubbly and tearing wrapping off things I like to spend a moment just enjoying the fact I have possibly the world’s most wonderful husband, a hilarious and eccentric family and a spectacular collection of friends.

Not to mention all that has happened since last Christmas!

Here’s wishing you all a terrific festive season and much luck in the Boxing Day sales… ;)

Just Say No

A particular member of the Bento team doesn’t particularly believe in luck. He says you make your own luck. Indeed, the success or failure of any individual person in their endeavours does seem to be down to their ability to create opportunities and then have the skills to see them have positive outcomes.

In building a new business, I’ve gone overboard in creating opportunities – I go to almost anything I’m invited to on the basis you never know who you’ll meet, I write to high profile people and generally operate on the basis that it’s free to ask.

Somewhat ironically then, some of the most amazing opportunities I’ve had this year have been the result of other people, companies and groups approaching me. Karma, luck, call it what you will – we’ve been incredibly fortunate this year.

The new challenge is that the universe has given us a wonderful array of opportunities… turning them successful, however requires time, energy and effort. This means that whilst you may want to do everything that lands in your lap, it gets to a point where it’s just not possible. You have to take a deep breath and say no to something.

Today I had to turn down a really phenomenal opportunity that less than 12 months ago I’d never have dreamed would be on the cards. Perhaps many people would think I’m crazy… but what’s the point in doing something if you can’t do it properly and to your complete capacity?

I’d be interested to hear what you think though – do you reckon people should just say no? Or is yes the secret to success?

Anyway… to the universe: thanks for so many opportunities, please don’t stop throwing them my way.

Pigeonholed

I’m a firm believer that the most talented and interesting stylists (both professional and amateur) are those who find new purposes and ways to wear pieces. Boots with cocktail dresses, sequins with denim, little black dresses and blazers in the office… you get the idea. I find this all completely thrilling – new ways to wear things in your wardrobe and many opportunities to wear new favourites too!

Unfortunately, this makes me rather intolerant when it comes to people ‘categorising’ Bento. The first collection was designed specifically to be versatile. I can see the many ways the pieces can be worn. Sure, the jacket can be worn to the office. I love wearing it stacked with my grandmother’s vintage brooches, a white tshirt and denim. Or with scrunched sleeves over a cocktail dress.

What I’ve discovered is that other people don’t think like this. I’ve lost count of the number of people who see Bento as ‘mature workwear’. In fact, this was the leading objection of buyers I approached to stock the collection. The creative part in me is frustrated and crushed. The marketer in me thinks I need to “package” it all differently. The business person reckons my product needs adjusting. The devil on my shoulder informs me they’re just stupid.

Whilst the next collection very much reflects the Bento simple, effortless style philosophy, I’ve definitely worked extremely hard to incorporate this feedback and stay away from anything that could be pigeonholed as workwear. It helps that we have more styles in this collection too, mind you.

What I’m still trying to decide though is this:

  1. Should I take on the role of trying to educate people as to the versatility of individual garments?
  2. Am I starting to fall into the horrible trap of attempting to keep everyone happy?

Something to ponder over this festive season, I suppose!

Assertive Versus Asshole

Complaining and providing negative feedback are tricky tasks at the best of times. Well, when you want something to happen as a result.

You can complain to your friends at a bar over a drink on a Friday night about the rubbish week you’ve had, but you don’t really expect them to do anything about it (except maybe buy the next round).

Then there’s the complaint/feedback that’s intended to be constructive. The kind you make when an airline loses your luggage or you get terrible service at an expensive hotel. It can be really tricky to complain in a way that gets you what you want, because more often than not you’re regarded as just being difficult, or not worth the hassle of a resolution. Worse yet, if you tell them what you REALLY think – like you might those friends at the bar – they’ll probably just think you’re rather annoying and call security.

The good thing is that quite often, you have nothing to lose by making your complaint. You can be articulate, sensible and constructive… or have a complete tantrum. Either way, you usually don’t have to see the person you’re complaining to ever again.

Then there are those unfortunate times when you have to complain to or reprimand someone who you need to continue to have a relationship with. It’s tough, but with practice and experience you can get used to it.

I’ve had several jobs in my time that are client-facing, and I know how awful it can be to have a horrible customer. As such, I pride myself on being a pretty darn reasonable client. Sometimes, being so easy-going can be mistaken for carelessness or worse, abused. The reality is that I pick my battles. This means that when I do object to something or complain, it’s not over a negotiable issue. I consider it to be fairly substantial.

Now the fashion industry (in case you haven’t noticed) is rather clicky. It’s all about who you know. If you’re a newbie like me and you’re already having a tough time because you don’t know many people the last thing you want to do is get a reputation for being difficult. So what do you do then when you need to complain? Or are you just expected to put up with sub standard service?

For the first time since I started Bento, I’ve had to provide some negative feedback this week. I’m not sure of the outcome yet, but I’ll be interested to see what it is. For that matter, will it impact my reputation overall, or have I managed to execute it in the light it was intended? Personally, as a business owner working my butt off to build a brand, I’d prefer to receive such feedback. But do others feel the same way?

To be continued…

Shoot Debrief

As anyone who’s anyone knows, yesterday we shot our Spring/Summer 2011 – 2012 collection. Everything fell into place and all the pieces arrived (the last the night before, but anyway!) and were in a far better condition overall that our first season.

I’ve been flat out since I woke up yesterday morning and it wasn’t until the wee hours this morning on a flight to visit my family back in Perth for Christmas that I really had the opportunity to reflect on the day.

I’m happy to confirm that it does get easier with time – this shoot being that much easier than the last, although I think it’s really important to ensure that familiarity doesn’t equate to carelessness.

What I learnt this time around is that not all suppliers are created equal. Just because you’re paying two people the same amount, don’t expect them to be as good as each other. Also, I always thought it was odd that people should do castings for models for a shoot (because you’re going to see them photographically, not on catwalk), but working with someone in that sort of high-paced environment is about more than just the way they look in the picture, so in the future I think I’d tend to hold a casting. For that matter, I’ll probably ‘interview’ other team members more closely too.

Those who’ve visited the blog before may remember me rambling on about needing a change room for the models, as the studio didn’t have one. Well, it was true – they didn’t. But they sure had all the stuff necessary to make a cracking change room on the spot and disassemble it at the end of the day. The lesson here? Always visit the location in person – don’t rely on the studio manager to be a problem solver. That said, I swear – it’s impossible to bring too much stuff to a shoot. You can never have too many bases covered.

This brings me to my final outtake from yesterday’s activities. Almost everyone has met someone in their lives who seem to think that no one can do a job as well as them. I’m ashamed to admit that in some circumstances, I’m that person. I can’t do my own tax, and I’m happy to offload that job to someone who can. As for nails though, I haven’t got a manicure in years because I always find fault in even the most expensive. I won’t go into detail, but I need to learn to let go of some things – or at least be happy with what other people produce – even if I could do a better job myself, because that’s just no way to run a business. Alternatively, perhaps I need to learn to become a better diplomat and be firmer in saying I’m not satisfied with something.

All in all, yesterday was a success. I haven’t seen the photos yet (beyond proofing some at the studio) but I’m sure they’re amazing. We also had the pleasure of welcoming Michael from Tangled Media to the shoot yesterday to film a short behind-the-scenes documentary that you’ll get to see in the coming weeks! A special shout-out goes to our magnificent photographer Emily Abay who also shot our last collection and the delightful Clare Clarke, a fashion student and my assistant for the day who was full of fabulous ideas and made life just so much easier. You both rock.

We’re all hanging out to see the photos as I’ll give you a sneaky peek as soon as I get them.

Does Anyone Really Care?

You don’t need me to tell you we have it pretty good in Australia. We have government-funded schools and medical care, minimum wages and occupational health and safety laws. At work, if your colleague bullies you and your boss hits on you, there are courses of action that can be taken.

Many of us take this for granted. It’s hard not to – particularly if you’ve never known anything else. Conceptually, it’s generally understand that it’s not like this everywhere in the world. Some of us even take small steps to help change things.

Sadly though, it seems to me that although many people hate the idea of poverty, they’re not really prepared to change their lifestyle to change things for others. Standing in a chain store on a Saturday afternoon faced with a pretty cotton sun dress for $80, they’re not really willing to think about how much the person that made it got paid. Or the sort of working conditions the person who picked the cotton endures.

As regular readers will know, we go to great lengths at Bento to ensure our garments are as ethical and sustainable as possible. The thing about ethical manufacturing though, is that it costs money. This isn’t some crazy equation. We make our garments locally. An average wage for a seamstress in India is roughly $2 a day. By making our garments locally, we support the local economy, reduce environmental impact and importantly, pay more.

Unsurprisingly, this means our garments cost more than those which are produced off shore and with fabric that is made in questionable environments. In other words, all silk is not created equal.

Personally, I would prefer to buy fewer garments of better quality and know that I didn’t support such things. This is one of the principles that Bento was built on. I know there are other people like me out there… but if we’re in a massive minority, is it even worth it? Is it commercially viable?

What about you? Can you honestly say you’re prepared to change your buying habits to improve the lives of people you’ll never meet?

Is it even important?